If I hadn't bought a 360 Hz Alienware AW2725DF 1440p QD-OLED monitor back in February of this year then this monitor would almost have certainly been the one to have replaced my previous 165 Hz ASUS ROG Strix PG279Q 1440p IPS monitor, which I had owned since 2018 (or was it 2017). The one thing I hated about previous ASUS OLED monitors was the raised tripod feet style stand but this one has a stand that is the same as my old IPS monitor. Good price too.
*EDIT*
I've just had a proper read of the review but, apologies if I am missing it, cannot see any mention of the HDR testing including how bright it gets at different window sizes like in other reviews. I am just missing this?
this is a winner across the board.
this also represents the lowest premium for the fabulous ROG heatsink which will extend the life of the monitor and further minimize chances of burn-in.
my only question is whether or not this is true 10 bit because HH was referencing 8 bit color depth.
I have this monitor connected via DP to a 7900 XTX.
The monitor is FreeSync Premium certified, not Premium Pro (which is a vague standard right now).
Not even Asus's website state Premium Pro for this model.
I've just had a proper read of the review but, apologies if I am missing it, cannot see any mention of the HDR testing including how bright it gets at different window sizes like in other reviews. I am just missing this?
You are correct. The review lacks HDR brightness testing. Using the Microsoft HDR calibration tool, brightness displayed varied between 700 to 1300 nits, which isn't right. Should be closer to 700 for 1-10% APL.
Also, how do you firmware update this monitor? The first update is out.
I've just had a proper read of the review but, apologies if I am missing it, cannot see any mention of the HDR testing including how bright it gets at different window sizes like in other reviews. I am just missing this?
Correct, I've ordered new equipment to be able to test HDR.
Oled is such a game changer visually, as i recenlty found out when i bought a 14in portable oled panel for my steam deck, and i was just blown away by how night and day the picture quality of oled is compared to a LCD monitor, so i hope in the next 2 years we see it become the norm and drop down in price to where LCD monitors are now, and i just bought a LG ultragear 1440p, so i want at least 2 years out of it before replace it, but that is going to be hard to do now that i have seen oled in action and that genei is out the bottle. lol
this monitor is right up my ally, amazon don't have it yet unless you guys know how to find secret amazon pages.
plz amazon get with the times. newegg already has it.
I have a matt ASUS Oled monitor for my desktop and a glossy oled from my laptop and I would say glossy looks better but it is more distracting with reflections.
Both are so good I will only go back to normal or mini led if there is a massive deal breaker in oleds.
I've been using this monitor for a couple days now. It is not full glossy. I'd say it's about 80 to 90% glossy. Compared to the 27" 1440p IPS semi-glossy monitor I upgraded from, bright colors look much cleaner. And compared to my even older full-matte monitor, the difference in color clarity is huge.
Between these three monitors, reflections on the matte display appear as spread-out smudges and you can't tell at all what kind of object is being reflected. On the semi-glossy you can just barely make out what the reflections are. On this monitor, you can clearly see the objects, but it's not a mirror. There's still a little bit of diffusion when it reflects bright light (a light bulb, for example.) As a result, reflections are not as annoying as on a mirror-like glossy TV.
Black level is amazing, even in a fully lit room during the day. Black stays black. In fact, it's better than my old CRT monitor and CRT TV during the day. It looks like a black hole even if you shine light on it, lol.
There is black crush when using the sRGB mode. The wide gamut option is fine. Wide gamut looks very nice in games, but for the desktop it can look weird, sRGB is better.
DSC can be disabled in the OSD. The only thing this does is prevent you from being able to use 10-bit color at 240Hz 1440p. Without DSC, 10-bit only works up to 180Hz. I don't know of what use 10-bit is in SDR mode, so I just use 8-bit.
Enabling DSC does not prevent Nvidia DSR/DLDSR from working. It works perfectly fine.
I cannot see text fringing on Linux. There's some very slight fringing on Windows in small font sizes. Fortunately, I really have to look very close at the text to make it out. So for me, I can say text looks fine.
This is the first HDR display I own, so I can't say if it's good or not since I have nothing to compare it to. I enabled it and watched a couple HDR demo videos, but I don't think it's for me. Parts of the image can become way too bright for comfort, and the contrast looks like one of those ReShade game presets I never cared about. Brightness can still be adjusted in HDR mode (there's a option for it,) but lowering it to something comfortable makes the image more washed out. I think I prefer SDR.
Brightness is very good, even in SDR mode. With all the adaptive brightness stuff disabled in the OSD (so there's no ABL or anything like that and brightness stays constant,) brightness becomes too much for me after 45%. I have it set to 30% brightness and it's more than plenty for me. I've seen people complain about "OLED brightness" on the web, but frankly, where the hell are these people located? Are they on a camping trip in Death Valley? 😛
VRR flicker is there. OLEDs are cursed. There's an "anti-flicker" option, which lowers the VRR range and also appears to do something else on top of that, but I have no idea what. Even with the VRR range reduced, there's still some fluctuation in Hz between 200-240Hz even if the game is capped to 90FPS.
Finally, 90FPS on OLED look like 100FPS on an LCD with good VRR overdrive (native g-sync,) and 120FPS on a shitty LCD with really bad VRR overdrive (I have both of those.) As for 60FPS games, I'd say it looks like what 65FPS looks like on a good LCD, and 75FPS on a shitty LCD.
I just tried the novideo_srgb tool to make the GPU do the clamping to sRGB while leaving the monitor in wide gamut mode, and this fixes the black crush.
Edit:
How to do this correctly. Just using the EDID colorimetry mode with the tool is going to still have some black crush (although very minor.) For best results, download the ICC profile from Asus:
https://rog.asus.com/monitors/27-to-31-5-inches/rog-strix-oled-xg27aqdmg/helpdesk_download/
In "Driver & Utility", download the "Driver Package" ("ASUS_XG27AQDMG_WHQL_Driver".) It's a zip. From that zip, simply grab the "XG27AQDMG.icm" file and put it in the same folder as novideo_srgb. Then in the tool, click "advanced", select "use ICC profile", browse for the ICC file, and select "calibrate gamma to sRGB. Leave everything else as-is:
"OK" and then simply enable the "clamp" checkbox. You don't need to activate "run at startup". The clamp will persist across reboots.
You probably will need to reapply it after driver upgrades, and also you probably have to manually disable it if you want to enable HDR.
With this, both the black level and white level tests on lagom pass with flying colors. All squares are clearly distinguishable:
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/black.phphttp://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/white.php
Note that this doesn't actually load the ICC profile or anything. The color corrections are performed by the GPU and affect everything. The desktop, games and all applications.
Oh, just noticed youre here as well @RealNC - small world.
Im looking to get this monitor but im still on the fence. The black crush issue is the main problem, the VRR stuff i can ignore cause OLED's are all plagued.
Oh, just noticed youre here as well @RealNC - small world.
Im looking to get this monitor but im still on the fence. The black crush issue is the main problem, the VRR stuff i can ignore cause OLED's are all plagued.
I replied on the other forums. But in general, since you're upgrading from an LCD, you can't really go wrong with any of the OLEDs. The difference to LCD is huge, but the difference between each OLED is small.
"OK" and then simply enable the "clamp" checkbox. You don't need to activate "run at startup". The clamp will persist across reboots. You probably will need to reapply it after driver upgrades, and also you probably have to manually disable it if you want to enable HDR. With this, both the black level and white level tests on lagom pass with flying colors. All squares are clearly distinguishable: http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/black.php http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/white.php Note that this doesn't actually load the ICC profile or anything. The color corrections are performed by the GPU and affect everything. The desktop, games and all applications.